“I think for a long time, equity meant getting in the room, just edging a foot through the door, and representing for a community that is often ignored by this industry. That idea eventually evolved into having a seat at the table, gaining power through leadership roles at major institutions and becoming apart of the decision-making process. We can sit atop mastheads, assign the features, recruit the talent, style the shoots, write the cover stories, etc. But, as I personally know, that doesn’t necessarily guarantee power. I think now equity lies in building out our own structures and establishments removed from outside influence. Owning your ideas outright.

I think you have to collaborate with the industry at large, but producing your own opportunities to celebrate your community and their style is fundamentally the goal. I loved what Telfar did in Florence recently, where he developed an all-night dinner party and sleepover in a huge castle with all his friends. And then he dropped the Gap collab. a few days later. In that instance, he created his own world without compromising himself and is still getting that bag.

Oh, and always employ your friends. Let’s get rich together!

Industry gatekeepers can, quite frankly, put their money where their mouths are. Invest in the start-up brands and designers who need the capital–and please note that they don’t have to be mega stars like Beyoncé and Rihanna in order to bank on them. White unknowns are consistently funded… Develop college recruitment programs that are specifically aimed at bringing Black coeds and graduates into the media and editorial world through paid internships and training programs. And once recruited, develop mentorship programs that work to encourage and support their careers while they combat on-the-job micro-aggressions that often stymie growth.”